Almost exactly a year ago, around Christmas, I went to Macau for a weekend. Here's what I found in my old journal about the Asian Vegas:
The wonderful vices of Vegas and the carol-filled canals of Venice. The two seemingly opposite attractions come together on the other side of the world, in a small strip called Cotai in Macau.
The little region of Macau is divided between the islands of Taipa, Colane and a reclaimed area called the Cotai strip, arguably the most exciting place of the region. One of the newest members of this region is the Venetian Hotel, which recreates Venice for its guests, complete with sparkling canals, singing gondoliers and carnival performers. It is on this hyperactive strip where one can find the interconnected shopping strips of the Venetian and the Four Seasons Hotels, both of which are delightfully exhausting for the zealous shopper. As you strut in and out of the Grand Canal Shops within the hotel, you’re serenaded by the echoes of gondoliers singing O Solo Mio in their divine voices. The Grand Canal Shops are unending rows of high-end brand stores on either side of the Grand Canal. Between shopping for things you don’t need and dining on world cuisines you might bump into living statues, street performers and musicians on stilts as they entertain children and gleefully pose for pictures. The cobbled streets, indoor sky and Venetian architecture of the hotel are as much an attraction of Macau as the world outside.
If you can tear yourself away from the shops at Grand Canal you will find your way to the Shoppes at Four Seasons. From Anna Sui to YSL, the world’s biggest luxury brands are found under this very high roof. Unless you have a will of steel, which I did not, the brands will burn a whole in your pocket. Even during the festive season, when everything is on sale, the prices are steep and yet oddly, irresistible. If you happen to be there on a December weekend you might catch beautiful wedding ceremonies in progress at virtually every corner. The Four Seasons seemed to be the preferred place for an intimate yet lavish morning of exchanging vows.
Macau is one of the few places in the world where you can enjoy a performance by the internationally acclaimed group Cirque Du Soleil. The CotaiArena at the Venetian headlines their show called Zaia, a blinding spectacle which combines enchanting music with larger than life production values and spellbinding acrobatics. The price of the ticket (HKD 388-788) dissuades many people from opting for it. But if you can spare the change, the show is more than worth the price. Cheaper thrills, of course, are speckled all over the land. From bleach blondes who light up the night at the Sands Hotel and Casino to cabaret shows in rooms of 10 by 10. In Macau, you might be spoilt for choice but never at a loss for options. If refined entertainment is more to your liking, virtually every hotel will promise you a night of diverse live performances in the company of a distinguished crowd. Both MGM Grand and Wynn are great bets for such a night. The nightlife is so dynamic and colourful that a lot of people who come in from China do not even book a hotel room. They spend their entire night enjoying the shows or hitting the tables. And the next day, they head back home straight from the bar counters. That’s the deceptive part about Macau. The big name hotels, intimidating brands and prices will make you expect an affluent crowd. But that’s not really the case. Only a fraction of the tourists will fit that description and they’ll be found more in the clubs and high stakes table rather than the first two casino floors.
Getting around:
MGM Grand, Wynn and The Sands Hotel and Casino are within walking distance of each other. But from the CotaiStrip in Taipa they are a thirty minute drive away. Public transport is cheap and readily available. However, complimentary shuttles from the Venetian to Sands do round trips every twenty minutes till 2 am. Although you’d be hard pressed to find the police anywhere, it’s good to know that the region is incredibly safe. The people are helpful, polite and orderly, except when they habitually steal your cabs.
Hindsight: I apologise if I gave the impression that Macau is all about poker chips, dancing girls and big white shopping bags. It also has a host of beautiful cathedrals, churches and chapels. Or so I’ve heard. I was a little pre-occupied with the poker chips.
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