There's complete truth to the fact that sometimes hype kills the product. But turns out that it's also true that joy is infectious. At least, that's what i found out when i went to the uber famous Khajuraho temples. Expecting to be underwhelmed, as i usually am by things that are uber famous, i undertook the journey from Delhi to Khajuraho, for work, might i add. The journey took us to first to Jhansi and then, to this unsuspectingly divine place called Alipura Palace. The Palace is about 300 years old and staying there was an unforgettable experience. The royal family that has been calling the Palace their home for generations, recently turned it into a heritage hotel and homestay. The step taken to save it from dilapidation and neglect turned out to be a boon for travellers like me; travellers who take the unbeaten path and have rarely seen the face of a map. Today, people come here looking for solitude, uncommercialised beauty, and the aura of a bygone time. Most people have only heard about the Palace through "friends or friends of friends." This keeps the number of visitors low and preserves its peaceful sanctity.
The journey to Alipura is not the easiest. One either has to drive two hours from Khajuraho's airport or one and a half hours from Jhansi's train station. It's really a pity that most of Madhya Pradhesh's beauties are suffering from the government's neglect. Lack of airports, distant train stations and even pathetic highways. It's like a proper attempt at self-sabotage. Little wonder, the people of MP can't stop envying the high priority given to their counterparts in Rajasthan. But, what's a broken road or two for those who revel in finding such hidden gems, which are sprinkled all across our amazing country.
Leaving the Palace, where we were treated like royalty and like family, we headed out towards Khajuraho. The temples, it turned out were absolutely exquisite. The carvings and the creations will leave you most impressed, if you can ignore the giggling group of teenage boys. The thing that left me most mesmerised by the temples was that there's more to them that the famous erotic carvings. really. If you look beyond the carnal carvings you'll find a deeper message, which the creator tried to convey through his chisel and stone. i dont wish to be mistaken for some deeply philosophical know-it-all. Quite honestly, I just figured out the complete meaning behind the temples courtesy the daily light and sound show, held at the temple. The narrator of the show is thee Amitabh Bachchan. And to go beyond a superficial appreciation of the temples, it is imperative to attend the show. The temples, are actually divided into three sections - the Southern, the Eastern and the Western. Most people turn back from the main complex/Western section itself, usually because they're completely unaware of the other two's existence. Although, not nearly as expansive or grand as the western complexes, the other two are also wondrous in their own right. One complex is dedicated to the Jain teerthankaras and clearly, here, one wont find any erotica decking the walls. they're the most unusual Jain temples one can see and are calmingly beautiful in their own right.
like any other tourist destination in the world, Khajuraho too comes with a smorgasbord of souvenirs to choose from. You'll find plenty of locals trying to coax you into buying Kamasutra Cds, books, t-shirts and other kinky keepsakes. It's actually the kinky keepsakes that make for the best mementos. Brass bottle openers, cheeky key chains, marble statues and much more, inspired by the temples' unique draw, are sold all over the city. There are some real funny and naughty key chains one can buy by the dozen right outside the Jain complex. From personal experience i can say that they were the most appreciated back home in Delhi.
The heart of India, as the ads would peg it, Madhya Pradesh is huge (how poetically appropriate). There's a lot to see here. so much in fact, that its lesser known, unheard of treasures remain unheard of. Alipura, i hope isn't one of them. i also hope that the government does more to facilitate tourism in MP; more than just making ads with catchy soundtracks.
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