Friday, January 1, 2010

Few hours from the capital. And miles away from reality. Pushkar.

Recounting my first of three trips to Pushkar. I was 19 then and naive. didn't see it for everything it is. and yet i fell deeply in love with it. Last time i went there was no Lake Pushkar. Just a pond with urchins splashing around. Wasn't I envious.

..........................................................................................................................................................................

A place known for its fairs and renowned for its soul. It's where Brahma's only temple in the world is found. And where countless travellers, from all over the world, flock to every year.

Second-hand tales will have you believe that December is the ripest time to visit the place. The fair, albeit an amazing experience, is one of the slimmest reasons to drive over to Pushkar. Pushkar as a place, surprises you more and more the longer you stay there.

As soon as you walk in, you'll probably notice all the shops, cafes, parlours with boards saying something in a strange noodle-like script. Now, as a wannabe linguist, I racked my brain cells rather hard to figure out which language are they actually using. Russian? Nope. French. Definitely nope. Korean? I don’t think so. Maybe, it's better to just ask the shop owners. Do that, and the answer you'll find is Israeli. Yes. Israeli. Who knew, but the place is packed with people from Israel – tourists who're just passing through, as well as tourists who decided to stay on.

In fact, the Mediterranean culture as a whole is quite pervasive there. You can see the region's influence with a simple walk through the streets. It's in the food, in the language people speak and even how they look at everyone. When you walk into a shop it's quite possible that they'll sweetly ask you where you're from. When we were asked the same and replied "Delhi," they seemed to be quite taken aback. Apparently to them we looked Israeli. How and why, I'm not quite sure.

Going back to the food. Pushkar, you'll discover, is not just a peaceful little haven. But an absolute paradise for animal lovers, like moi! The people there are sticklers about no animal slaughter taking place in Pushkar. Unless there are confidential corners tucked away in some places, which is quite a possibility, it's impossible to find anything with a face land up on your plate. The place is teeming with travellers from all over the world, but when in Pushkar, all of them stick to vegetarian versions of world cuisines. Whether it is Israeli, French, Mexican or Indian food you want on your platter, it's going to be shudh shakahari. Even the German bakeries will offer you muffins minus eggs.

A good place to stay is Pushkar Palace. It's a trite expensive. But most months you can get the Rs. 6,000 suites for Rs. 2500 a night. Of course, you don't need to shell out so much because for a little more you can rent fantastic places for weeks, months even. One of the nicest things about the place is the Sun Set Café. It's right next door to the Pushkar Palace. It flaunts an amazing view, a sumptuous menu, chilled out patrons and a truly friendly staff.

I wonder if I can work from there? I am sure something can be worked out.

Come to Munnar and tell me you think there's no God.


Again, dug out from a journal, way back from 2006. Went there again in July '09. but that's another day, another blog.

What new things can I tell you about Kerala? Everything has already been said, written, shot, filmed and shared. Yes. It is enchanting. It is beautiful. It is everything the brochures promise. And then some. So let’s talk about the ‘then some.’

Let’s talk about Munnar. You might have seen it on the big screen if you’ve seen Nishabd. At the expense of sounding pompous, I have to say that we discovered its beauty much before the big screen did. For those who didn’t catch the movie, Munnar is a wonderful little hill station tucked between the unending spans of tea estates, most of which are owned by the Tatas. It’s clean, green with very few people and virtually no tourists. In other words, it’s like Simla or Mussoorrie, only 20 years back in time.

The first thing we did in Munnar was head over to the Mattupetty dam where the district authorities provide boating facilities. If that’s not your thing, you can hire speedboats or motorboats to splash your way up and down the Kundla River. The River is very placid, clean and did I mention there aren’t too many people around? The dam itself is a quiet little tourist spot, very family friendly. You can take home various kinds of teas from the makeshift market. We tried the chocolate and masala teas but they were a little too exotic for my rather discerning palate.

Now let’s move on to Thekkadi. While walking towards Periyar we realised that Thekkadi, at least the stretch that leads to Periyar, has some of the most wonderful hotels in the nation. None of them that we could afford but it’s always nice to see unique and esoteric architecture, particularly when it’s in your own country.

Now, I’m neither claustrophobic nor am I agoraphobic. Yet, I’m not very good with being in closed quarters with too many people. However, I managed to forget all that and took in the sights and sounds of the Periyar sanctuary. Not to mention breathe in the fresh and light air of the place. I think my carbon filled lungs took time to adjust to the unfamiliar feel of clean air. After almost gliding on water for an hour and taking pictures of interesting trees, we spotted a herd of majestic elephants. They were happily going from one part of the sanctuary to another with a bunch of their adorable calves playing around them. You could hear a flurry of clicks between the ‘oohs!’ and the ‘awws!’ And I’m secure enough to admit that some of those swoons were mine.

I know how everyone keeps saying that they’ll definitely be back to see more of Kerala. But I had the opportunity to do just that four months ago. Although I was there for work and our stay was limited to Alleppey, it was no less memorable. Before leaving for Kerala, my producer, Sudipta, kept warning me that the men are a little too friendly there. And apparently they have a peculiar habit of poking women with umbrellas! Perhaps it was their idea of flirting. But on landing there I was relieved to see that the place had not changed much at all. And the only man poking women with an umbrella was our director. I’d love to mention his name but the poor guy’s married.

I’m not one to preach and tell people how to live their lives. But if you are planning a trip to Kerala, look beyond the tourist maps. And you might find a discreet little missionary school in Alappuzha. The charming and perfectly behaved students there love Nestle Munch chocolates. And though, they’d be more than willing to share, why not buy a whole box, if not more?


The high end of Hong Kong


It’s hard to write about Hong Kong without letting it sound like a list of shopping centers; a well written list, but a list nonetheless. The shopping experience overwhelms everything else the city has to offer. The MTR metros often open inside malls that are carpeted by the biggest brands from all over the world. For instance, you can hop on the MTR and take a ride to Tung Chung. 30 minutes later the doors will open inside a giant mall that’s home to discount outlets of Quiksilver, Nautica, Folli Follie and many more.

Tung Chung is a new developing town on Lantau Island where you can also find Ngong Ping, one of the few tourist destinations in Hong Kong. A rather long and slow cable car ride from Tung Chung takes you to the Po Lin Monastery and the famous Big Buddha. Both are situated in Ngong Ping, where you can feast on world cuisines followed by a cup of steaming tea in the quaint Chinese tea house. Ngong Ping is not just a tourist destination but also a sacred place for Buddhists from all over the world. As a result it’s also a haven for vegetarians, like yours truly.

The other place to check on your list is The Peak, which is an incredibly steep and picturesque tram ride away from Central. The Peak is the highest point in Hong Kong from you can see the whole city as well as, on a clear day, China. But, unlike an ordinary viewpoint, The Peak is a whole region where you can find fine dining options, shopping hubs and, most importantly, Madame Tussauds. Inside Tussauds’ two floors you’ll bump into as many international faces as unfamiliar Asian ones. However, the only Indian who made the cut here was Gandhi.

One of the most frequently visited places in Hong Kong for travelers is Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The place is packed with renowned hotels, restaurants and shopping malls like Sogo. As a result it is the preferred choice for foreign travelers. At 8 p.m., every night, tourists line up along the harbor for a light and musical show. In the fifteen minute show, skyscrapers across the harbor light up and “perform” to the music. Recently, people of Hong Kong objected to the exorbitant amount of power consumed by this daily event. Apparently, the governments reply was something to effect of Hey! We barely have any tourist attractions in Hong Kong. So we’re keeping it.

Besides Kowloon, the other big region is Hong Kong is Central, the uber posh residential area where you find more Masseratis than people. But, because it is a residential and financial hub you’ll find very few tourists. However, the nightlife in Central is at par, if not better, than Kowloon. Lan Kwai Fong better known as LKF is the most vibrant entertainment district in Hong Kong. An unending row of pubs and clubs line either side of a cobbled street which is packed with merry makers all year long. Few locals will be found here, it’s more popular amongst international travelers and ex-pats. Sevva in Central is a luxurious lounge reserved for the famous faces of Hong Kong and their privileged guests. And it is as famous for its breathtaking view of Hong Kong as the paparazzi outside. Even on a cold winter evening, we found ourselves on the terrace to take in the spectacular view in the company of their divine signature drinks.

VENICE MEETS VEGAS MEETS MY MAXED OUT CREDIT CARD


Almost exactly a year ago, around Christmas, I went to Macau for a weekend. Here's what I found in my old journal about the Asian Vegas:


The wonderful vices of Vegas and the carol-filled canals of Venice. The two seemingly opposite attractions come together on the other side of the world, in a small strip called Cotai in Macau.

The little region of Macau is divided between the islands of Taipa, Colane and a reclaimed area called the Cotai strip, arguably the most exciting place of the region. One of the newest members of this region is the Venetian Hotel, which recreates Venice for its guests, complete with sparkling canals, singing gondoliers and carnival performers. It is on this hyperactive strip where one can find the interconnected shopping strips of the Venetian and the Four Seasons Hotels, both of which are delightfully exhausting for the zealous shopper. As you strut in and out of the Grand Canal Shops within the hotel, you’re serenaded by the echoes of gondoliers singing O Solo Mio in their divine voices. The Grand Canal Shops are unending rows of high-end brand stores on either side of the Grand Canal. Between shopping for things you don’t need and dining on world cuisines you might bump into living statues, street performers and musicians on stilts as they entertain children and gleefully pose for pictures. The cobbled streets, indoor sky and Venetian architecture of the hotel are as much an attraction of Macau as the world outside.

If you can tear yourself away from the shops at Grand Canal you will find your way to the Shoppes at Four Seasons. From Anna Sui to YSL, the world’s biggest luxury brands are found under this very high roof. Unless you have a will of steel, which I did not, the brands will burn a whole in your pocket. Even during the festive season, when everything is on sale, the prices are steep and yet oddly, irresistible. If you happen to be there on a December weekend you might catch beautiful wedding ceremonies in progress at virtually every corner. The Four Seasons seemed to be the preferred place for an intimate yet lavish morning of exchanging vows.

Macau is one of the few places in the world where you can enjoy a performance by the internationally acclaimed group Cirque Du Soleil. The CotaiArena at the Venetian headlines their show called Zaia, a blinding spectacle which combines enchanting music with larger than life production values and spellbinding acrobatics. The price of the ticket (HKD 388-788) dissuades many people from opting for it. But if you can spare the change, the show is more than worth the price. Cheaper thrills, of course, are speckled all over the land. From bleach blondes who light up the night at the Sands Hotel and Casino to cabaret shows in rooms of 10 by 10. In Macau, you might be spoilt for choice but never at a loss for options. If refined entertainment is more to your liking, virtually every hotel will promise you a night of diverse live performances in the company of a distinguished crowd. Both MGM Grand and Wynn are great bets for such a night. The nightlife is so dynamic and colourful that a lot of people who come in from China do not even book a hotel room. They spend their entire night enjoying the shows or hitting the tables. And the next day, they head back home straight from the bar counters. That’s the deceptive part about Macau. The big name hotels, intimidating brands and prices will make you expect an affluent crowd. But that’s not really the case. Only a fraction of the tourists will fit that description and they’ll be found more in the clubs and high stakes table rather than the first two casino floors.

Getting around:

MGM Grand, Wynn and The Sands Hotel and Casino are within walking distance of each other. But from the CotaiStrip in Taipa they are a thirty minute drive away. Public transport is cheap and readily available. However, complimentary shuttles from the Venetian to Sands do round trips every twenty minutes till 2 am. Although you’d be hard pressed to find the police anywhere, it’s good to know that the region is incredibly safe. The people are helpful, polite and orderly, except when they habitually steal your cabs.


Hindsight: I apologise if I gave the impression that Macau is all about poker chips, dancing girls and big white shopping bags. It also has a host of beautiful cathedrals, churches and chapels. Or so I’ve heard. I was a little pre-occupied with the poker chips.

Why now?

Since I'm used to being paid to write, the idea of blogging seems almost unnatural now. But, i finally got fed up of re-writing travel blogs for people and companies, about places i have never seen. The borrowed words and Copyscaped articles made me take the inevitable plunge. So here it is - an honest blog about all the places i have actually been to.

In my words. Under my name.