i'm not a hill person. but, if there is such a thing, i'm certainly a McLeodganj person. Most hillstations, to me, stand for pretty but monotonous scenery. abused land and exploitative people. But they say all love is exception making. And for me, McLeodganj is that exception. It's spritual, happy, kind, pretty and content. it's everything that's missing with the regular world these days.
there's tons to buy, and even more to eat. every cafe and menu is tempting enough to convert even a lifelong weight watcher like me. But then there's the Tibetan herbal tea to jog your metabolism. I personally found the self proclaimed 'Pema Thang - paradise for pizzas and salads' highly overrated. too oily for me but my colleague found it fantastic. The tibetan cafe on the corner of the fork leading to Pema Thang is good for the ambience and beverages. Staff is sweet and prices are cheap. All proceeds are used for the welfare of Tibetan refugees. gobbling down good food while stocking up on good karma; what more could one want? Bean cafe is a good place to order tibetan food but also have indian and italian dishes as a backup. Lessons for Tibetan food can be found in many homes and cafes. They're advertised boldly enough. So, pardon me if i diet another day. it's easier in Delhi.
There are 3-4 really great hotels to suit every budget there. The Bhagsu hotel is the himachal tourism hotel. simple, big and mostly clean rooms. Prices start at 1100 with 30% off during off season. Pema Thang hotel, right opposite Bhagsu, is a cute place with backpacker budget but better amenities. a local youth is seen playing the guitar and singing their daily. plenty of backpackers carrying yoga mats to keep you company. earlier on the road are the natraj and surya hotels. natraj is like the middleground between pema thang and surya. The standard of poshness as well as the prices descend exactly in the order of location - Surya, Natraj, Pema Thang. Rooms at Surya can go up to 6000 a night. Not worth it to me. Because the same views and roughly the same decor is available for much less at the others. Maybe if one is travelling with a family, it's suitable. But not for fukra travellers who want to hang out with fukra travellers, the kind Mcleodganj is all about. A few great but out of the way places for people to stay in would be two superb homestays called Santushti and Om Mahal. Santushti comes with its own pool and a smashing cafe and bar. really extra-ordinary given the location. Om Mahal on the other hand is more cultured and sohpisticated. The owners of the house are the local royalty and politicians. they're thick with the dalai lama himself and his holiness has personally gifted them countless things over the years. their knowledge can go a long way in helping people get face time with the mesmerising nobel laureate.
Unfortuantely, i have heard that in this year's peak season there were 7-hour traffic jams. So, i understand if some people disagree vehemently with me or find me to be biased about McLeodganj. But i would still urge such people to give it another shot and avoid being following the herd heading for the hills, every summer.
